the delayed flights. two hours. three hours. six hours. the gate changes. the freezing airports. the unsmiling security and surly ticket takers. the taxi driver that´s out to win. the taxi driver that follows the rules when no one else does. no seat belts. trains with glass ceilings to see snow-capped mountains. trains with small windows and no air. children running along side moving trains while generously clueless tourists throw money out the window. collectivos that only hold four, magically holding six. buses taking hairpin turns on muddy roads at triple the recommended speed. almost crashing. not crashing, just yelling. arriving and letting out that unknown breath.